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Milan Fashion Week: the Glitterati Master Understatement

From The Times

Girl">http://www.himfr.com/buy-Girl_Cap/">Girl CapMilan is not famous for an irreverent, abstract approach to fashion. The average outfit here has more sparkle than Donatella Versace's jewellery box.

But Moschino's Cheap & Chic range is always happy to play with the kooky and the kitsch. This collection was an upbeat colour-fest including the sort of splashy floral prints seen in London and New York.

At times - as is so often the case when clothes are styled up for a show - this eclectic mish-mash, with its pops of mandarin, lemon and turquoise, could look a little much. Break it down, however, and it wasn't hard to extrapolate the on-trend separates such as the gentle folds of the balloon-shape skirts, or the slouchy, oversized tops and skinny trouser combinations.

Silhouettes sometimes harked back to the Fifties with fitted waists and dresses made with unevenly dyed grosgrain ribbon and macramé, but always stopped just short of being twee. And could anything be taken too seriously when a handful of the evening gowns featured enormous photographic images of rabbits and butterflies printed on to duchesse satin?

Giorgio Armani surely sits in the Milanese minority, such is his reluctance to pay homage to anything that is obviously vulgar. That doesn't mean he isn't fond of a little sparkle or shine; just that, chez Armani, things are a little more toned down.

The mainline show yesterday was just as subtle as Sunday's Emporio show, and all the better for it. Gone were distracting accoutrements, fussy trousers and headgear. This was a collection about jackets, from elegant, nipped-in versions with pleats inserted at the back to others with oversized collars or hems that finished at two sharp points.

Armani also chose patterned textures in moody greys and mushroom taupes rather than a mass of print. Teamed with tapered trousers or belted, shantung shorts, this collection was richer than ever in smart daywear.

Italian exuberance came via sequinned or crystal-embellished loose capes and cardigan jackets, designed to be worn nonchalantly over a tea dress or chiffon gown. Eveningwear in pale duck-egg or a splash of blush pink was as simple as it was fluid. Much less of the va-va voom diva than we have seen in the past.

Producing a summer collection for a knitwear house predominantly known for its winter woollies is no easy feat, but that has not deterred Clare Waight Keller, who joined one of Britain's most famous exports in 2005.

So what was up with all that volume around the waist? Playing with proportions and getting them wrong can prove disastrous. Few women want to add unnecessary bulk to their frame and if they are fashion-forward enough to try, it needs to look obvious. It was unclear whether the first few paint-splattered outfits were drop-waist dresses or randomly pleated styles that had been gathered in too loosely.

Fortunately, things picked up, with gauzy, fine separates in monochromatic shades or off-neutrals, and with some fresh detailing: pin-tucking, pleating, draping, ruching. Other highlights were the modern interpretation of the Victorian sailor suit, abstract, rectangular prints on sporty tunic dresses, and white shirts with rows of embroidered panelling. Ruffles also turned up, rather awkwardly on the back seams of a grey leather jacket, and more successfully as tiered sections on tops and dresses.

Does sex sell? Seemingly so for a handful of designers who can't resist a flash of thigh atop bondage-style skyscraper heels and who, (one has to marvel) still manage to build up multimillion-pound brands. It's certainly the usual route of design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

The nautical theme seen yesterday, then, was a definite change of tack. Channelling a 1930s Deauville theme is a clever move:stripes are a summer staple in most women's wardrobes, and score an instant hit with discerning fashion editors.

At times the references were a little too literal: embroidered anchors sewn on to navy sweaters, flag motifs on bags, and a sailor's knot logo that veered scarily into air-hostess territory. Mostly, however, they had fun, adding their Italian spin to sequin-stripe sweaters, red and white bouclé-knit jackets and high patent wedges and layering on the baubles and oversized rosettes. Flashes of gold appeared in the crunchy, taffeta skirts; we saw animal-print coats as well as a finale of retro-inspired eveningwear. Well, this is Italy - did you think they were really going to resist a bit of bling?

About the Author

Himfr is a scholar, focusing his research on Chinese cultures. If you are interested in purchasing China goods, please visit www.himfr.com

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